Dariya - Heirloom Collectibles

Parvai's Dariya project pays tribute to the deep human creative connection with the earth. Through this particular work of art, we celebrate the timeless and ancient (Gawanrbali Dabu)resist handprint technique of Fadat, Pharad or Farad patterns using natural/chemical free / vegetable dyes by a team of highly skilled artisans under the capable supervision of the legendary Titanwala's of Bagru.

What makes this craft even more inspiring is the ecosystem of communities that coexist and work harmoniously to create it. The Kharaudi community designs the blocks carved from Sheesham wood, while the Chhipas imprint the designs on the fabric. The Dhobi community carefully washes the fabric, and the Rangrez use natural dyes to create a vibrant palette.

This age-old technique, with its natural and laborious processes/colours used, results in a fabric that is highly sought after and luxurious. The Dariya project reminds us of the beauty of nature and the incredible things that can be achieved through collaboration, harmony and slow revolution.

What you should know about this saree:

• Prized & rare Fadat, Pharad or Farad pattern (Chakri Motif)
• Crafts deeply rooted in history (Historial references from the 8th century)
• Natural Dyes Vat dye (indigo) & Manjistha 
• Highly labour intensive
• Pure silk
• Luxurious comfort
• Easy to drape
• Dense and structured
• Moisture absorbent, therapeutic 
• Low maintenance
• Artisans were fully paid dignified wages.
• Available as a single piece only
• Environmental friendly process and product
• Durable, Sustainable, Biodegradable

Dimensions:

• Length - 5.5 meters
• Width - 1.27 meters,
• Blouse - 1 meter
• Weight - 670 gms

Garment care: Take care of your garment, for these are heirloom pieces across generations. We recommend gently hand-washing these sarees in cool water with mild detergent. Shade dry these sarees & avoid drying under direct sunlight.

Weaving Process:

• Woven in: Maheshwar
• Fabric composition: Warp & weft double-ply 22/22 denier.
• Pre-Loom Preparation time: 9 days
• Weaving Process: 4 days
• Printing Process: 45 Days
  

Printing Process:

This product falls under the Asamani group of Bagru Prints, where the ground is blue, and the motif colours are black, red & white. The printing process has taken 45 days of work by 12 artisans.  The meticulous process behind this product is a culmination of several generations' worth of traditional calculations, precise proportions, and closely guarded trade secrets that have been passed down within families. These time-honoured techniques have been refined over time to ensure that every batch of this product is of the highest quality, making the product a prized heirloom.

The 4-inch wooden block used in this sari is over 70 years old.

• De-sizing: The first step of the long drawn process begins with soaking the sari in water for 16-20 hours. This helps in swelling the yarn of the sari and in removing the impurities and the starch. The sari is then thoroughly washed by beating it on both sides. 
• Peela Karna: In this process, the washed fabric is dipped in a solution of myrobalan / harda powder for a day or two, which makes the cloth soft and pliable in the printing operation that follows and also helps in the uniform absorption of the printing paste to develop a rich shade. 
• Syahi Begar Printing 
  
• Syahi: Syahi is essentially a fermented solution of iron, the fermenting agent being molasses, and this, with the addition of gum, becomes a paste ready for use in printing. Syahi, in combination with mordant harda, develops into a deep black colour. This process is again extremely tedious, done in exact ratios and often made in bulk, and it takes a couple of weeks to prepare this. Syahi paste has been used throughout the sari to imprint the base design. The base printing for the sari took eight continuous hours of work using the 1st block of the design.
• Begar: this is a mordant of alum, which, in combination with alizarin, develops a rich red colour. A combination of water, gond(gum), fitkiri & geru is dissolved for a specific time, which goes through a tedious process before it finally becomes the begar paste. In this particular sari, the red in the Chakri motifs and along the border and pallu motifs is rendered using this paste. Preparing the begar is also often done in bulk and usually takes a week to 10 days. The begar printing on this sari took about 8 hours to print over the exciting base design with utmost accuracy. This is a skill set that is achieved with years of wisdom and experience. 
• Alizarin Dyeing: Two people are required in this process of alizarin dyeing. The printed sari is dipped in a large copper vessel containing slow-heated alizarin liquor and allowed to cool. The dipped sari is then taken out and left on the ground for 5-6 hours, after which it is thoroughly washed by beating it on both sides. 
• Resist /Dhabu. : Dhabu is the local name of the resist paste applied on those parts of the printed motifs whose colour is sought to be protected and sealed off from the effects of further treatments that the cloth undergoes. The three kinds of dabu techniques are Kalidar dabu, Dolidar dabu and Gawarnbali dabu. Of these, the kaligar and the dolidar dabu are most commonly used, whereas the gawarnbali dabu is used very rarely. The Gawanrbali dabu process has the best adhesive strength among the three kinds of dabus. In this sari, we are proud to say that the gawanrbali dabu process has been used. The 2kg of gwar (a bean vegetable) is roasted till it gets brown. Then, they are ground to fine powder. An amount of chuna is boiled and then stained fine to mix it with gwar powder. This mixture is dried and ground again to make a fine powder. This is finally mixed with a solution of gum. This solution is made thick or thin according to the need. The application of the resist of the exiting design is made using the third layer of block known as the datta block. This process took about 6-8 hours.
• Indigo Vat: This is a process of cold dyeing. The sari is vertically dipped inside the math so that it is completely immersed in the liquor and then taken out. The cloth inside the vat takes a rich green colour. After this, the cloth is exposed to air, whereby rapid oxidation takes place, and the green colour turns to a blue shade. The process is repeated to give greater depth and uniformity to the colour. 
• Aluming:  The sari is dipped in alum water to weaken the dabu prints so that it washes off easily and to fix and improve the colours of the prints. 
• The Final Wash: The sari is washed in clear water, followed by a quick dry in the open sun.

It's crucial to think about the people behind your clothes and their work conditions. Here at Parvai, we take great pride in our commitment to fair, dignified treatment of our artisans and ensuring that our sarees are not made through exploitation or inhumane working conditions. Each saree we create is a true expression of love and care.

• Woven by rural weavers in Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
• Printed by legendary traditional Dabu artists Mr. Deepak Titanwala & team

It's important to understand that the artisans of Bagru rely solely on nature's forces in various aspects of their printing process. The block, the resist, the printing pastes, the dyes, the water used, and the sunlight needed are all dependent on the environment. This makes the craft extremely vulnerable, especially during these changing times when the environment is undergoing drastic changes. The changes in the seasons and the intensity of the environmental changes have a significant impact on the people, processes, and products. It's crucial to note that this sari was made very differently when the craft thrived in the past. The artisans involved in the making of these saris have done their best to do absolute justice in creating the design and the process as it was done centuries ago. Mr Deepak Titanwala went out of his way to secure almost 10kgs of gawanrbali seeds to make the best possible resist paste for this project. He mentions how the last time he saw this being used was when he was nine years old, and his father used it as a national award project. This shows the commitment and dedication of the artisans towards their craft. Therefore, it's essential to support and appreciate these artisans and their efforts to preserve the traditional art form. We must make a conscious effort to choose sustainable and eco-friendly products that not only help preserve the environment but also support the livelihood of these artisans.

Mr Titanwala & Parvai's team firmly believe that these crafts are not dying - but very often, it is the patience & willingness to invest in craft, allowing the process to come alive step by step over several months, that is dying. This is why at Parvai, we believe patrons should educate themselves, be open to the slowness of the process & demand the highest quality of craft.

Note: This product is handwoven and handblocked, so slight irregularities might exist. Imperfections and variations in the product cannot be termed defects, as these are intrinsic to the handmade process. The product colours may vary due to the light sources or monitor setting.

Shipping: We offer free shipping. Upon purchase, the product is dispatched in 10-15 business days. Returns are accepted within ten days of delivery. Cancellation requests will be accepted strictly within 24 hours of placing the order.

Urgent shipping within 2-5 days can be arranged at an additional charge based on the shipping location.

Do you want to know more? We are available at +917358550888 (WhatsApp) & happy to speak to you about our creations.