Dariya - Heirloom Collectibles

Parvai's Dariya project pays tribute to the deep human creative connection with the earth. Through this particular work of art, we celebrate the timeless and ancient (Kalidar Dabu) resist handprint technique of Fadat, Pharad or Farad patterns using natural/chemical free / vegetable dyes by a team of highly skilled artisans under the capable supervision of Mr Roshan Chippa.

What makes this craft even more inspiring is the ecosystem of communities that coexist and work harmoniously to create it. The Kharaudi community designs the blocks carved from Sheesham wood, while the Chhipas imprint the designs on the fabric. The Dhobi community carefully washes the fabric, and the Rangrez use natural dyes to create a vibrant palette.

This age-old technique, with its natural and laborious processes/colours used, results in a fabric that is highly sought after and luxurious. The Dariya project reminds us of the beauty of nature and the incredible things that can be achieved through collaboration, harmony and slow revolution.

What you should know about this saree:

• Prized & rare Fadat, Pharad or Farad pattern. (Chakri)
• Crafts deeply rooted in history (Historial references from the 8th century)
• Natural Dyes (Vat) Indigo
• Highly labour intensive
• Pure silk
• Luxurious comfort
• Easy to drape
• Dense and structured
• Moisture absorbent, therapeutic 
• Low maintenance
• Artisans were fully paid dignified wages.
• Available as a single piece only
• Environmental friendly process and product
• Durable, Sustainable, Biodegradable

Dimensions:

• Length - 5.5 meters
• Width - 1.27 meters,
• Blouse - 1 meter
• Weight - 670 gms

Garment care: Take care of your garment; these are heirloom pieces across generations. We recommend gently hand-washing these sarees in cool water with mild detergent. Shade dry these sarees & avoid drying under direct sunlight.

Weaving Process:

• Woven in: Parvai loom Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
• Woven with: Pure mulberry silk (2-ply warp/4 ply weft, 20/22 denier)
• Technique: Handwoven on a traditional floor loom
• Pre-loom preparation time: 26 days
• Weaving process: 12 days

Printing Process:

This product has gone through many different steps of printing and dyeing to create the unique black motifs against a red background creating a stunning pattern. The printing process has taken 68 days of work by 12 artisans.  The meticulous process behind this product is a culmination of several generations' worth of traditional calculations, precise proportions, and closely guarded trade secrets that have been passed down within families. These time-honoured techniques have been refined over time to ensure that every batch of this product is of the highest quality, making the product a prized heirloom.

The 4-inch wooden block used in this sari is over 70 years old and is a traditional Fadat, Pharad or Farad pattern. (Pankhi / Turhi Patashi motif)

• De-sizing: The first step of the long drawn process begins with soaking the sari in water for 16-20 hours. This helps in swelling the yarn of the sari and in removing the impurities and the starch. The sari is then thoroughly washed by beating it on both sides. 
• Peela Karna: In this process, the washed fabric is dipped in a solution of myrobalan / harda powder for a day or two, which makes the cloth soft and pliable in the printing operation that follows and also helps in the uniform absorption of the printing paste to develop a rich shade. 
• Syahi Printing
• Begar:  Begar paste is a mordant of alum which in combination with alizarine, develops a rich red colour. It is made of gum, aluma and geru which is dissolved in water and kept for 4 hours. This solution is strained through  a thin cloth many times till all the soaked is made lump free.
• Resist /Dhabu. : Dhabu is the local name of the resist paste applied on those parts of the printed motifs whose colour is sought to be protected and sealed off from the effects of further treatments that the cloth undergoes. The three kinds of dabu techniques are Kalidar dabu, Dolidar dabu and Gawarnbali dabu. Of these, the kaligar and the dolidar dabu are most commonly used, whereas the gawarnbali dabu is used very rarely. The resist blocks are printed on this sari using Kalidar Dabu, which uses a mixture of kali mitti, lime, wheat flour and gum.
• Alizarin Dyeing: Two people are required in this process of alizarin dyeing. The printed sari is dipped in a large copper vessel containing slow-heated alizarin liquor and allowed to cool. The dipped sari is then taken out and left on the ground for 5-6 hours, after which it is thoroughly washed by beating it on both sides. 
• Indigo Dyeing: This is a cold dyeing process. The cloth previously dyed with alizarine and subsequently printed with resist paste I taken and treated in stock indigo vat.
• The cloth is again resisted where the motifs are.
• After the resist the potna process is done in which the stretched cloth is brushed with a cloth pad dipped in syahi paste. After this the cloth is dried
• Aluming:  The sari is dipped in alum water to weaken the dabu prints so that it washes off easily and to fix and improve the colours of the prints. 
• The Final Wash: The sari is washed in clear water, followed by a quick dry in the open sun.

It's crucial to think about the people behind your clothes and their work conditions. Here at Parvai, we take great pride in our commitment to fair, dignified treatment of our artisans and ensuring that our sarees are not made through exploitation or inhumane working conditions. Each saree we create is a true expression of love and care.

• Woven by rural weavers in Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
• Printed by legendary traditional Dabu artists Mr Roshan Chippa & team

We ensured that the craftsmen from Bagru worked on the best possible handloom sarees for this project. We aimed to produce an heirloom piece that would be truly worthy of its value. To achieve this, we embarked on a journey to get pure silk, pure zari sarees specifically woven in white and sent them to Bagru. When we started working in Kanchipuram and invested in looms, we wanted to generate opportunities for not just the master weavers but also the other weavers who could be employed throughout the year. We worked on simple designs that would be weaved for surface embellishments like printing and embroidery in consultation with our design team for various craft clusters in India. Each saree in this series is a Parvai Original, and only one of every kind is produced, making it an exclusive and unique piece for the wearer. Multiple pieces of the same design are not made.

It's important to understand that the artisans of Bagru rely solely on nature's forces in various aspects of their printing process. The block, the resist, the printing pastes, the dyes, the water used, and the sunlight needed are all dependent on the environment. This makes the craft extremely vulnerable, especially during these changing times when the environment is undergoing drastic changes. The changes in the seasons and the intensity of the environmental changes have a significant impact on the people, processes, and products. It's crucial to note that this sari was made very differently when the craft thrived in the past. The artisans involved in the making of these saris have done their best to do absolute justice in creating the design and the process as it was done centuries ago.

Note: This product is handwoven and handblocked, so slight irregularities might exist. Imperfections and variations in the product cannot be termed defects, as these are intrinsic to the handmade process. The product colours may vary due to the light sources or monitor setting.

Shipping: We offer free shipping. Upon purchase, the product is dispatched in 10-15 business days. Returns are accepted within ten days of delivery. Cancellation requests will be accepted strictly within 24 hours of placing the order.

Urgent shipping within 2-5 days can be arranged at an additional charge based on the shipping location.

Do you want to know more? We are available at +917358550888 (WhatsApp) & happy to speak to you about our creations.