Auspicious Kalyani

The Kanchipuram silk stands unrivalled as one of the world's most coveted and cherished silks. Its unique intrinsic and extrinsic features and superior quality have earned it an unshakable reputation among Indian women for generations. This exquisite craft is a testament to the unparalleled skill and artistry of the weavers who create it.
Throughout history, Kanchipuram silk saris have held this special significance, often purchased exclusively from trusted sari sellers who had a long-standing relationship with the family. These saris were reserved for important and memorable occasions, such as weddings, where they became treasured family heirlooms. The emotional value of these saris is often far more significant than their monetary worth. A wedding sari, in particular, holds enormous significance in a couple's marital life. The woman of the household would carefully preserve this sari for years, wearing it again on other special occasions such as a sibling's wedding or the birth of her own child. Over time, a sari might acquire the status of a "blessed sari" and be passed down to the next generation to be revered, cherished, and worn. For families who hold these heirlooms dear, pricing and discount offers have seldom influenced their purchase decisions, especially for special occasions.

(Seen here are cherished family heirlooms in pure silk and pure zari more than 40 years old owned by Smt Padmavathi Raman)

Parvai is dedicated to creating such heirloom saris that patrons will cherish for generations. Our team consistently strives to incorporate unique elements into our projects to ensure that they stay true to their original intent. One such project that we have undertaken is Kalyani. We began designing, conducting preloom setting trials, and more in early 2023. After months of hard work, we are thrilled to bring this project to fruition. The saris in this series celebrate the most revered qualities of Kanchipuram silk, with a particular focus on its auspiciousness. We aim to highlight this characteristic and add an additional layer of inspiration to this already timeless tradition. We also have an interesting anecdote to share about the name of this project. As a practice, we affectionately name our projects as a team, and Kalyani is no exception. It was a mere coincidence that we chose this name, only to realize later that it is perfectly fitting. Kalyāṇī (कल्याणी) means "auspicious" in most Indian languages and is also the name of an auspicious raga sung in North and South Indian music. Today, we are thrilled to share these details with you as we launch our signature Korvai project, Kalyani.

(This exquisite Kalyani in a pure white body is well contrasted by a brilliant shade of red adorned with delicate and elegant floral and geometrical motif lines in a combination of real gold zari, green and white silk threads. The sari ends in a pallu that features a central band in pai madi motif along with floral moku motifs on with side of this band, all done on adai. It is paired with a contrasting red blouse in the same design continued along the borders.)

Parvai's Kalyani boasts of several unique features that make it an embodiment of auspiciousness. These features can be broadly categorized into five main ones, each of which contributes to the overall grandeur and sanctity of the Kalyani.

1. The Colours
2. The Motifs
3. The Silk & Zari
4. The Korvai Borders
5. The Intent 

THE COLOURS :

To understand the arrangement of colours used in Kalyani, we must first delve into the technical aspects of warp and weft arrangement as described below. In Tamil Nadu, the korvai technique is employed to distinguish the border and end pieces from the middle portion of the sari by creating colour oppositions. Supplementary threads are placed on either side of the warp length so they are together and opposite in colour to that of the principal warp. The distinctiveness of the korvai technique lies in creating a solid rather than shot-bordered sari. A three-colour opposition may also be created in Korvai weaving using three different colours in the warp and the three respective shuttles. Saris woven in three colours are called morning-evening (kaalai-maalai or Ganga-Jamuna, highlighting the alternation between light and dark in the borders of the sari, united by a third colour in the middle portion. Sometimes, the same effect of a solid border is created differently by interlacing the warp with the separate shuttles. Then, only the colours of the shuttles are reversed—the two border shuttles are the same colour as the warp, and the shuttle working in the middle portion of the warp is contrasting. This results in the middle portion of the sari being woven in a shot rather than a solid colour. In either case (i.e., whether in differentiating the colour of the warp at the time of laying it or at the time of interlacing it with the shuttles), a colour opposition is created. The treatment of the end-pieces in korvai saris also follows this relation of unity and opposition. The frontispiece is broader and more elaborate than the other and is always a solid colour compared to the smaller end-piece, which is a narrow band woven in a shot colour created by the admixture of the warp colour with a contrasting weft colour. The extreme ends of the sari are necessarily contrasted from its middle section through the use of opposing colours but, at the same time, united with the borders, which must, crucially, be of the same colour. Thus, if red is used in a sari for its borders, it will invariably be repeated at the end-pieces.

With an awareness of the technical aspects of color arrangements, we can now shift our focus to the role of patrons in selecting their preferred colors. At Parvai, we encourage patrons to engage with us to determine which colors they would like to see incorporated into their project. These discussions often lead to inspiring stories that showcase each individual's unique understanding of the importance of colors, which are deeply personal. We have thoughtfully curated a list of colors that we intend to use in our Kalyani project, as they have played a significant role in our culture, religion, and the evolution of our identities. Colors are powerful and can have a profound impact on our mood, emotions, and behavior. It is impossible to imagine life without them. While an individual's response to color can be influenced by personal experience, the science of color meanings and color psychology suggests that there is much more to it. Here's how we will be looking at colours for Kalyani.

• Warm Colours: Red, yellow, orange, gold and even pink are warm colours. These colours are associated with passion, enthusiasm, optimism and happiness and are often used to mark significant occasions. Red, for example, was also one of the first colours to be successfully used as a dye, and the natural elements that yielded them have also found their way into the lexicon. 'Arakku' (lac) is one of the earliest-known sources of red dyes and remains the favourite colour for Muhurtham ceremonies in weddings across Tamil Nadu.
• Cool Colours: Blue, green, purple and violet are cool colours. They usually have a bluish undertone and are meditative in nature. The serene blues embody the divine and signify spiritual depth, often seen in temple-related sarees. Green, on the other hand, represents fertility and growth. Goddess Kamakshi carries a parrot in one of her hands, and the bird’s colour has grown so familiar that ‘kili pachai’ is often favoured by weavers. Kanchipuram is also home to the Pachai Vanna Perumal temple, where Vishnu is represented in resplendent emerald green, another popular hue among green Kanchipuram silk sarees.
• Neutral Colours: Black, white, and grey are associated with neutrality. While white is considered pure and associated with the divine, black is considered the antithesis of white and is avoided. White is considered the purest of the pure, touched by the divine, and is traditionally the colour worn by Christian brides. The pristine cream and gold bordered kasavu and mundu were also favourites of Travancore royalty. The goddess Saraswati is often depicted as a beautiful deity dressed in pure white and seated on a white lotus, symbolising light, knowledge, and truth. Weavers of the Kanchipuram use black yarn more often in the weft of a sari, infusing the warp colour with a darker hue. Traditionally, a completely black sari is chosen for the valai kappu or seemantham ceremony that marks a woman’s first pregnancy.

These colours, set apart by borders and pallus, work together to create a striking visual effect and bring a sense of harmony to the overall look. At Parvai, we spend much time with dye books and work with our dyers in Kanchipuram to arrive at exciting combinations. We do these in small quantities, which is one of the most identifying aspects of our saris. The colours are never repeated in the same design. We look forward to creating excellent contracts using the divine colours of Kanchipuram. 

THE  MOTIFS

Before languages and scripts were born, humans used symbols and motifs to communicate and express themselves. This is evident in the old cave paintings found all over the world. As civilizations evolved, so did our obsession with art. As religions and places of worship became more prominent, so did the art. Symbols of auspiciousness appeared in places of worship and on people's jewellery, clothes, houses, and even skin. Tattooing was one of the oldest ways to communicate these symbols, and in ancient India, tattoos were used extensively. This deep-rooted symbolism can be found in every aspect of life. We also find this symbolism in woven textiles, particularly in the legendary city of Kanchipuram. The weavers and artists there have created thousands of symbolic motifs, many of which are inspired by sculpture and art found in temples. This syncretism makes Kanchipuram weaves unique.  At Parvai, we studied these symbols enthusiastically while designing our motifs. We wanted our sarees to carry symbols that were beautiful and meaningful to our culture and heritage. Kalyani, for instance, features a unique four-petal motif that was born from a conceptual drawing by our creative head, Ane Thomas. As she worked on the four-petal flower, she drew inspiration from her research on four-directional designs and discovered the concept of muladhar, which describes the four-directional patterns with utmost clarity. 

(Kalyani motifs being designed)

Muladhara, or the root chakra, is one of the seven primary chakras discussed in sacred Hindu tantric books. It is believed to be located at the coccygeal plexus beneath the sacrum. Muladhara literally means the very root of our existence, and it is believed that this is the base from which the three main nadis or nerves emerge - Ida, Pingala, and Sushumna. Thus, the Muladhara is vital to our culture & religion. The Muladhara is depicted as a 4-petal flower in red, and Ganesha is considered the presiding deity of Muladhara. However, we are not the only culture that believes this. References to the 4-petal flower can be found in various cultures worldwide.
When we developed the design for Kalyani, we wanted to incorporate this special motif alongside some traditional motifs & lines to create a unique border. Thus, the 4-petal flower became the central motif for Kalyani.
The pallu of Kalyani also features kumbha motifs encasing a beautiful mat-weave or pai-madi pattern pallu. Kalyani's adai pallu is unique because while the pai-madi pattern is made quickly on the body or pallu with jacquard cards, it is relatively difficult to incorporate in an adai pallu. We have further differentiated the pattern with two different square styles. It is worth mentioning here that these elements were sketched & designed from scratch by Parvai. The end effect is a well-woven, artistically designed pallu with a faceted effect well accomplished by a team of three weavers. We are proud to offer sarees that are not just pieces of fabric but also carry our culture's rich heritage and symbolism.

(An exqusite adai pallu featuring uniqe gopuram and pai-madi motis)

THE SILK AND ZARI.

The Padma Saliyars are, without a doubt, the most distinguished community of weavers known for their specialization in weaving the purest Kanchipuram silks. Their saris are not only unparalleled for their weight, durability, luster, and striking color combinations, but also for their stringent adherence to appropriate procedures that ensure the overall propitiousness of their work and products. Weavers of raasi saris are known for their impeccable discipline and reverence to their work practices. They firmly believe that weaving saris for significant occasions involves much more than just producing a commodity for exchange in the market. The Padma Saliyars consider it their "work ethic" to adhere to various prescriptions during the preparatory and weaving processes, which are believed to become infused into the very cloth they weave and sell.

Therefore, given such an impressive precedent and benchmark, it becomes imperative to maintain purity in the best possible manner, making the importance of pure silk and pure zari indisputable. Silk is considered the ultimate fabric for religious worship, and a sari woven in pure silk and zari can instantly make any auspicious occasion sacred. At Parvai, we unequivocally understand and respect these beliefs, and we leave no stone unturned in personally sourcing our silks to ensure that only the highest grade of silk is used in our saris. After extensive experimentation, we have also developed our own 5g zari for special projects. We take great pride in setting our own benchmark for the quality of our saris, and we are supremely confident that our customers' satisfaction is guaranteed.

THE KORVAI BORDERS

The iconic Korvai design of saris is a cultural masterpiece that reflects the cultural value expressed in the Tamil term for auspiciousness, Raasi, which involves the conjunction of opposed elements. The etymology of the Tamil term Korvai reveals that the technique is characterized by a “unity” and “opposition” of elements. Weaving enhances the auspiciousness of the sari when woven by specialized weavers. The Korvai technique involves using two or more shuttles carrying two or more separate weft yarns to constitute a single weft passage, resulting in a border(s) "joined" to the main body of the sari.
The unity of cultural practice and technical design achieved in weaving the Korvai sari renders the product of this activity significant for human identity and exchange. The cloth body—the Korvai sari—is intrinsically related to the auspiciousness of events and people when worn or gifted. Therefore, Korvai, or the technique of interlocking a contrast border and pallu to a sari, came to be considered auspicious over time. Kanchipuram silk saris were, by default, woven on Korvai looms incorporating auspicious colors and motifs.
At Parvai, we are deeply engaged with Kanchipuram Korvais and devote significant time to understanding, experimenting, prototyping, and learning how to improve our Korvais.

Project Kalyani is a handwoven Korvai sari woven on a traditional floor loom, with both adai and jaqard design elements. It began with a narrow 4-inch border. After the first few warps, we decided to increase the border size to enhance the sari's impact. The end result is a beautiful sari that is visually stunning and comfortable to wear.

THE INTENT

Parvai has been producing craft since 2016 with a clear intent, purpose, and a well-defined process, keeping both the artisan and patron perspectives in mind. The team's extensive experience with weavers has provided them with profound insights into the process of weaving and the weavers' approach to the craft. At Parvai, the weavers and their team treat the loom space and workspaces with great devotion, as a place of worship. The day starts at 4 am with prayers and chants, setting the tone for the day's work. Dyeing, warping, and the start of weaving are all done following the panchangam. Prayers are offered at every stage of the process, and when the sari is taken out of the loom, it is treated with utmost respect and offered to Kanchi Kamakshi herself before it is packed. Such is the weavers' belief in the power of the divine that every Kanchipuram sari is unique and special. Similarly, most of the saris woven at Parvai have specific intent put forth by the patrons. Whether it's a sari for a muthurtham, valai kap ceremony, housewarming, wedding trousseau, or traditional collectibles, the team is highly aware of how unique each commission is for the patron. They work with the same spirit as the weavers, paying attention to every little detail. When a client makes a purchase or places an order, the team discusses how the sari is likely to be used, and they put forth all their efforts to manifest those emotions in every sari they weave. They believe in the spirit of positive thoughts and know that every Parvai sari occupies an extraordinary place in the alamari of their patrons. 

Kalyani, the latest addition to the collection, is a true embodiment of auspiciousness and is breathtakingly beautiful. The weavers and patrons alike are mesmerized by her beauty. This series will see saris made for special occasions and events, and the team hopes to come back with those heartwarming narratives soon. Kalyani is currently on the loom and open to orders. For more details, please call +91 94444 39425.