Parvai's Padma

The exquisite art of woven embellishing

At Parvai, we hold a profound belief that the essence of any handcrafted product transcends its physical form, rooted deeply in the creative journey and intricate craftsmanship behind it. Each piece we create is imbued with the spirit and dedication of our gifted artisans, who engage in their craft not merely for financial sustenance but to experience a profound sense of pride, dignity, and fulfilment—elements that give their artistry meaning, irrespective of their individual circumstances. In today’s fast-paced commercial clothing industry, the spirit of genuine art and craftsmanship often faces significant challenges in maintaining its integrity. We envision that a genuinely handcrafted product should embody several essential qualities:

1. Crafted in Dignified Conditions: The environment in which our craftsmanship occurs should honour the artisans and respect the sanctity of their work.
2. Infused with Inspiration and Purpose: Each piece should resonate with the artisan's vision, creativity, and personal narrative, creating a deeper connection with the wearer.
3.  Utilization of High-Quality Materials: We prioritize the integrity of the product, choosing quality materials that enhance the item’s lifespan and essence rather than opting for lower-cost substitutes.
4.  Transparency in the Crafting Process: The journey of crafting should be visible and accessible, allowing patrons to appreciate the dedication and effort that go into every detail.
5. Showcase of Skill, Authenticity, and Creativity: Each finished product should be a testament to the artisan's unique talent and originality, celebrating their individual fingerprints and signature styles.

In a world of mass production, attaining these ideals can often seem elusive. Nonetheless, at Parvai, we remain steadfast in our commitment to meet as many of these expectations as possible with every project we undertake. While we may not consistently fully achieve every criterion, our dedication to embodying these values remains resolute.

Project Padma emerged from a client’s heartfelt desire to recreate a sari originally woven in Kalakashetra, a institution renowned for its craft legacy. The original sari was painstakingly crafted using age-old techniques, precisely the traditional adai method, which intricately weaves motifs into pure silk and real zari with immense skill.

The journey to bring Project Padma to fruition spanned two years, prompting curiosity regarding our motivations. In this blog, we wish to illuminate three primary reasons behind our vision for this project:

• The ( Rare) Adai Technique:

Project Padma invites patrons to engage intimately with this ancient weaving technique, allowing them to witness the labour-intensive process that must be preserved to maintain our connection to cultural roots and heritage. The adai hand-weaving technique not only imbues motifs with exquisite detail but also creates striking relief textures that elegantly enhance the sari's drape. This time-honoured method demands immense skill and dedication as artisans painstakingly weave motifs, culminating in a mesmerizing and intricate visual tapestry. Unlike the swift and often impersonal production of modern jacquard looms, which manipulate silk threads mechanically, the adai technique celebrates the artistry and touch of human hands, reflecting a rich tradition that deserves acknowledgement and preservation. Unfortunately, the term 'adai' is frequently used in the commercial textile world as mere marketing jargon, leading to a dilution of its true significance. While many patrons seek authentic handcrafted textiles, the artisanal practice of using adai is in decline. This decline is exacerbated by a dwindling number of skilled artisans and a concerning lack of appreciation and patronage for these crafts. Artisans encounter numerous challenges, such as the slow pace of production, labour intensity, and modern market demands, leading to an undervaluation of their craft heritage. At Parvai, we consciously swim against this current; Project Padma exemplifies our commitment to a deliberate and meticulous crafting process that requires unwavering patience, skill, and investment. Our dedicated team—including reed makers, yarn suppliers, adai specialists, and other essential craftsmen—worked assiduously alongside our design team to re-establish the looms and revive this enchanting weaving technique.

• Quality Raw Materials:

For the creation of Padma, we chose Kanchipuram as our production locale, known for its longstanding reputation for weaving excellence and impeccable craftsmanship. Anticipating a final product weight of 900 grams, with approximately 180 grams allocated to real gold and silver zari, we knew we were facing substantial production costs. However, through the unwavering support and collaboration of a remarkable group of women who aligned with our vision, we successfully sourced the high-quality materials necessary for this endeavour. The quest for Tamil Nadu Zari—a material that is often elusive and challenging to procure—was met with enthusiasm from local weavers who were equally committed to bringing Padma to life.

• Meet Two Key Members

Major initiatives are seldom the work of a single individual; rather, they are the product of a collaborative effort among a diverse group of skilled professionals. Project Padma, featuring the handwoven Kanchipuram Korvai Sari created on an adai loom with pure silk and zari, stands as a testament to our craftsmanship. This project would not have reached its level of excellence without a dedicated team possessing varied skills, experiences, and perspectives, all united by a common vision to deliver superior quality to our patrons.While we acknowledge numerous individuals who played pivotal roles, we wish to highlight two specific contributors who often remain in the background but are indispensable to the creative process: the adai maker and the reed maker. Their expertise and craftsmanship are integral to the final product, yet their contributions are frequently overlooked.

Meet Shri Sampath Kumar, Designer & Adai Maker. 

Sampath Kumar emerges from a lineage dedicated to traditional weaving, yet he opted for a governmental career, establishing a stable income outside the textile realm. Nonetheless, his intrinsic passion for textiles persisted, leading him to proficiently utilize design software to generate patterns. This endeavour not only supplements his income but also fortifies his connection to his family's craftsmanship.

Having undergone formal training in adai making through the Weavers' Society of Tamil Nadu, Sampath has distinguished himself as one of the few artisans in Kanchipuram specializing in this labour-intensive craft. He observes a notable shift in market demand towards Jacquard designs as opposed to Adai, citing that many artisans in this field shy away from adai work due to its physically strenuous nature. The craft requires significant mathematical dexterity and the ability to maintain a strained position on the floor to achieve precision in knotting the adai.

The intricate process of adai creation commences with the meticulous design mapping onto a graph, which serves as a blueprint for construction. This is followed by assembling a wooden framework, termed "acch," where a mesh of threads is arranged according to the design specifications. The quantity of threads on this framework dictates the design's length, while the knots tied on these threads determine its width.

Sampath is recognized not only for his artisanal skill but also for his amiable disposition and supportive nature toward fellow artisans. He is particularly enthusiastic about collaborating on Parvai’s forthcoming adai initiative, Project Shashikala, which aims to recreate a cherished old sari belonging to one of Parvai’s most distinguished patrons.

Meet Shri Rafiq, Reed Maker

Rafiq is a skilled bamboo reed maker from Kanchipuram, renowned for his contributions to the intricate art of traditional hand weaving. His craft plays a crucial role in the production of exquisite silk sarees, as the quality of the loom significantly depends on the reed—a fine-toothed bamboo comb that helps separate the warp threads and facilitates the weaving of intricate designs with the weft thread. This essential tool greatly influences the way designs are translated onto fabric, showcasing artistry and finesse. For over seven years, we have collaborated closely with Rafiq, recognizing his vital role in our creative ecosystem. Our patrons have observed the significant impact of our partnership, resulting in projects that reflect precision and high-quality output. Rafiq hails from a lineage of bamboo reed makers; his grandfather migrated to Kanchipuram from Andhra Pradesh five decades ago in search of better opportunities. Rafiq resides in the bustling community of Pillaiyarpalayam and has dedicated the last 30 years to mastering the craft, having learned from his father.

The bamboo reeds produced in Kanchipuram are essential for crafting some of the densest pure silk textiles in handlooms, allowing for the meticulous execution of designs in real zari that are characteristic of the legendary Kanchipuram sarees, often referred to as the "queen of silks." A knowledgeable saree connoisseur can appreciate the subtle distinctions in handwoven sarees by examining factors such as patterns, weight, and overall density. This process involves careful calculations and custom crafting of reeds tailored to specific designs rather than employing a generic approach. Although creating unique reeds for each design is labour-intensive, it is essential for achieving the desired outcomes. Notably, Parvai's Padma saree exemplifies remarkable density and design execution, a testament to Rafiq's invaluable contribution in supplying the perfect reed for this project.

Parvai's Design Head Ane Thomas, with her fantastic team of artisans, Master Weaver Mariappan & Weaver Komala

At our Kanchipuram workshop, a passionate team of artisans is diligently engaged in Project Padma—a true celebration of the exceptional craftsmanship that defines our rich heritage. At any moment, a minimum of three master artisans intricately work together at the loom, combining their skills to create a weaving process that is as precise as it is artistic. Each sari is a labour of love, taking approximately 45-50 days to complete, contingent on favourable weather and conditions.

The intricate designs embellished on Padma can be replicated on a jacquard loom with the same breathtaking relief and finesse by adding additional zari threads and increasing the pick. The level of detail is so remarkable that even the most discerning eye would find it hard to distinguish between these creations and traditional adai-woven masterpieces.

But how do you truly gauge the value of a sari woven using the adai method? The answer lies in witnessing the artistry firsthand. We strongly advocate for transparency in craftsmanship, believing that genuine appreciation for the authenticity and richness of a sari is best experienced by observing the meticulous artistry in action.

We take immense pride in championing this time-honoured tradition, ensuring that each piece we create is not only a beautiful work of art but also a testament to our unwavering dedication to excellence and cultural heritage. By sharing this immersive experience with our patrons, we invite you to appreciate the breathtaking beauty of our craft and the unwavering commitment embedded in every thread of our saris.

Project Padma is open to commissions in colours of choice and zari options in 3 grams and 5 grams of Tamil Nadu Zari.

Meet Priyanka Raman, the believer and an absolute ambassador of heritage and crafts who has contributed immensely to Parvai's endeavours.

While we come back with more updates, please take a moment to appreciate the saris born out of this sincere effort on the link below.

https://www.parvai.com/collections/padma

With gratitude

Ane Thomas